Kangaroo Island Drive

After crossing Backstairs Passage by ferry from Cape Jervis to Penneshaw this drive of some 420 kilometres starts at this eastern end of Kangaroo Island and heads to Seal Bay - 97 kilometres, Seal Bay to Remarkable Rocks via Vivonne Bay, Rocky River, and Cape Du Couedic - 84 kilometres, Remarkable Rocks to Cape Borda - 74 kilometres, Cape Borda to Kingscote via Parndana - 105 kilometres, Kingscote to Penneshaw - 62 kilometres.

Let's get one thing straight - Kangaroo Island is no small dot in the ocean. It's a big island - 155 kilometres long and the third largest in Australia. So make sure you set aside at least two days to take in all the sights.

Take your car across Backstairs Passage on the 50-minute ferry trip from Cape Jervis to Penneshaw or hire a car over there. A sealed road rings the entire island so a 2WD vehicle is adequate.  If you plan to 4WD to some of the more remote spots, drive carefully, not too fast and watch out for the wildlife.

Head straight to Seal Bay, arguably Kangaroo Island's top attraction. You can walk on to a beach full of sea lions accompanied by a National Park ranger. Regular 45-minute tours are conducted throughout the day.

Further along the coast, Vivonne Bay lays claims to being Australia's best beach. Named by French explorer, Nicholas Baudin in 1803, Vivonne Bay has a beautiful harbour, jetty, boat ramp and great surfing and fishing.

At the western end of the island, Flinders Chase National Park features a host of attractions that will keep you busy for the afternoon and possibly longer. At 74,000 hectares, it's one of Australia's largest reserve areas and considered one of our most significant conservation sites. Rich in native wildlife, koalas can regularly be seen dozing in the treetops and Platypus can also be found in the area.

You'll also want to check out the Cape du Couedic lighthouse, Admiral's Arch - home to a colony of New Zealand Fur Seals - and Remarkable Rocks, a cluster of huge, weather sculptured granite boulders perched on a dome that plunges 75 metres to the sea. You might want to spend a night down this end of Kangaroo Island, but make sure you book in advance, particularly during the summer months and long weekends.

Take in the views out to sea at the Cape Borda Lighthouse, and if you're there at 12.30pm you might even experience the daily firing of the restored signal cannon. Then head inland to Parndana. At Parndana Wildlife Park and Paul's Place, you can get close to native animals and birds, as well as friendly farm animals.

Head to Kingscote and explore its fascinating heritage. The first official settlers came to the island in 1836, however the majority left in 1837 in favour of Adelaide. Take the time to drop into some of the wonderful boutique food producers and cellar doors dotted around the island.

Take a detour and absorb some of Kangaroo Island's most dramatic coastline and secluded beaches on the north coast drive. Stop off at Western River Cove, walk along the river down to the hidden sandy cove, also Stokes Bay with its great swimming beach and Emu Bay, with vehicle access and good fishing. And while you're here:

• Take a look at Frenchman's Rock at Penneshaw inscribed by a sailor travelling with French explorer Nicholas Baudin during his exploration of the island in 1802-03.
• Stop into Murray Lagoon in the Cape Gantheaume Conservation Park, a paradise for bird-watchers.
• See Little Sahara - a strange natural phenomenon that leaves many a tourist baffled.  Looming out of the bushland is a line of dunes, with another behind it and then another, and no sign of the sea.
• Drop into Kelly Hills Caves - discovered in 1885 by a lost horse called Kelly.  Underground cave tours are run by National Parks and Wildlife, and adventure caving is also available by arrangement.
• A must for all visitors to Kangaroo Island is the nightly guided penguin tour - available at Penneshaw or Kingscote.
• A visit to the original settlement spot on Kangaroo Island, Reeves Point, with its historic cemetery and early house sites, is recommended.
• Visit South Australia's only working eucalyptus distillery at Emu Ridge Eucalyptus Distillery.